Added to cart
−
+
In my practice, I rarely see people whose skin suffers from too little skincare. The opposite problem, however, is something I encounter almost every day: skin that is irritated, red and inflamed – not despite an overloaded skincare routine, but because of one.
That may sound contradictory at first. But it makes sense as soon as you understand what the skin actually is.
The skin is not a helpless organ. It is a highly developed system that largely takes care of itself. It forms its own protective film – a fine emulsion of lipids and water –, regulates its moisture balance and possesses a remarkably resilient barrier against pathogens and environmental influences. This protective film not only keeps moisture in the skin, but also maintains the slightly acidic pH that keeps pathogens at bay. Strictly speaking, the skin produces its own highly effective skincare. Healthy skin, then, is not a permanent patient. The task of good skincare is to support its protective work – not to replace it.
Overdoing skincare sets off a vicious circle: the skin becomes inflamed and irritated, its barrier grows more permeable, moisture loss increases, and this makes the skin drier and more sensitive. The barrier suffers. It responds with redness, tightness and at times a stinging sensation on application. And because the skin now feels irritated, many people reach for even more products – making the very problem they are trying to solve even worse. Some skin conditions, such as perioral dermatitis around the mouth, are considered typical consequences of excessive skincare. In these cases, your skin is not saying: give me more. It is saying: leave me alone.
For most skin types, a small, clearly structured programme is enough as a foundation: a gentle cleansing morning and evening, and a suitable moisturizer – light for oily skin, richer for dry skin. During the day, sun protection is added – the most important protection against light-induced skin ageing, because UV radiation is the greatest external ageing factor, and because excessive UV radiation is a risk factor for skin cancer. This applies in particular to fair skin types, that is, Fitzpatrick skin types I and II. Children's skin needs very little skincare and often manages with none at all – for most people, the need for care begins to rise gradually only from around the age of twenty.
Those who wish to care for their skin beyond the foundation just described can add targeted active ingredients to optimize the structure and function of the skin. These are the optional extras. Vitamin C and vitamin A, for example, work at a deeper level by supporting collagen and strengthen the structure of the skin in the long term. Hyaluronic acid, by contrast, binds moisture and creates a plumper, fresher complexion. Niacinamide strengthens the barrier and regulates several processes at once. Used correctly, these ingredients can make a noticeable difference: the skin remains more resilient, healthier-looking, and ages more slowly. But not all active ingredients work in the same way. Vitamin A and vitamin C, for instance, are so sensitive that they benefit from formulations that ensure their stability and avoid unnecessary interactions. Other substances, such as niacinamide, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid, are more straightforward and combine well. Those who understand this avoid the most common mistakes all by themselves.
In the end, what matters is not the quantity, but the selection and the right timing. A few scientifically proven ingredients, used in effective concentrations and well matched to one another, achieve more than a dozen randomly combined products from the bathroom cabinet. "Proven" here means: examined in controlled studies, with a documented mechanism of action. Yet even the best active ingredients remain limited if the fundamentals are missing. Anyone who consistently sleeps badly, smokes or treats their skin aggressively cannot make up for it with any serum in the world. Skincare does not begin in the bathroom cabinet, but with the right lifestyle.
Those who stick to cleansing, moisturizer and sun protection do nothing wrong. But those who want more should know why. It protects the skin, your health – and not least, your wallet. More on this in the sixth maxim of my book How to Look Better: Finetune with Proven Skin Care Technology.
