Prof. Dr. Steinkraus × FAZ Magazine

Mr. Steinkraus, in the early 2000s, you launched your first skincare line, SBT, in collaboration with a Swiss cosmetics manufacturer. It was designed to combat skin aging. Last year, a line under your own name followed. Why are you going it alone now?
Although I was one of the brains behind the concept for this series, I had no significant influence on decisions regarding key content issues. Since so much has happened in skincare over the past 20 years, I was drawn to the task of creating a new skincare concept for which I would be solely responsible and to which I would contribute my experience with new technologies.

Both lines fall into the category of so-called doctor brands, facial care products developed by dermatologists. How does the new series differ from what's already available?
My skincare is based on four components: classic vitamins A, C, and E, the natural protective shield niacin, plant oils with a highly nourishing effect, and biomimetics. These are natural substances that are among the most exciting and valuable building blocks in scientific research because they imitate nature, thus harnessing mechanisms proven effective over millennia. The line is free of silicones, acrylates, and microplastics. All of these substances are often used as plasticizers or to seal the skin. But the skin can't really use them. The products are realistic, both in their effectiveness and in their price.

What do you mean?
Skincare is important, but it shouldn't be overrated. We can't cream away wrinkles; you have to resort to other measures if you want them. My face cream costs 58 euros, which isn't cheap, but it's affordable.

The SBT line you supported was almost twice as expensive, at around 100 euros for one cream.
Over the past few years, I've come to the conclusion that skincare, and especially all the so-called doctor brands, are massively overpriced. Skincare isn't a luxury, but a commodity.

Now your focus is on serums: There's a vitamin A serum, a vitamin C serum, and a hyaluronic serum. Why so many?
Vitamin A, also known as retinol, and vitamin C slow the skin's aging process, as proven by long-term scientific studies. Over the years, new approaches have been developed, but ultimately, we always end up with vitamin A and vitamin C. Vitamin A is a small, lipophilic molecule that penetrates the skin easily. Vitamin C is a bit more complicated because it oxidizes quickly, which inactivates it. It is hydrophilic and therefore doesn't penetrate the skin quite as easily. Therefore, the concentration of the active ingredient must be significantly increased to achieve a certain level of penetration. Vitamins A and C form the bracket, so to speak, to promote collagen production and boost the skin.

In what order do you recommend using these serums?
Vitamin A should be taken in the evening before bedtime because it is sensitive to light. This leaves the morning free for the vitamin C serum. I advise against using both serums at the same time. Using many things in parallel only benefits the cosmetics industry, not the skin. I'm a fan of monotherapy. The serums are high-quality and shouldn't be interfered with with other active ingredients. Unfortunately, it's still a myth to believe that the more we do for our skin, the better. The opposite is true

But following your advice, should you use the hyaluronic serum in addition?
Hyaluronic acid is an active ingredient that binds a lot of water and can be safely combined in any form. Vitamins A and C are the long-distance runners, so to speak, while hyaluronic acid is the short-distance runner. It's uncomplicated and well-tolerated, making it the best moisture booster. When you apply hyaluronic acid, you'll look better in the short term because a lot of water is bound in the skin. And because a lot of water is bound, wrinkles disappear for a short time. That's a great booster effect and great if you're planning something special. But hyaluronic acid is definitely not an anti-aging agent.

So, skincare can't stop the aging process. In your experience, what can you do to slow down the aging process?
Having good skin is always a holistic approach. It starts with sufficient sleep, a healthy diet, and enough exercise to stimulate blood circulation in the skin. Mental health also plays an important role, such as how happy I am in my relationship and how satisfied I am with my job. A positive attitude can sometimes have more of an impact than a cream. Skin care is just one piece of this puzzle, albeit an undoubtedly important one. But always in moderation. Most people do far too much.

What do you suggest to your patients?
I always say: Find a few select products and use them for at least three months. That's a realistic timeframe you need to see any effect. You can't compare skin care to a blood pressure pill, where you see an improvement the next day.

What happens if you do too much?
Our skin isn't designed to be greased, oiled, and moisturized from morning to night. Our skin naturally does a pretty good job of this, so it shouldn't be constantly disturbed from outside. This starts with the fact that many people today shower twice a day. Frequent use of shower gel and other cleansing products unnecessarily disrupts the skin's natural barrier. It's also a misconception to think we need to constantly moisturize our skin with greasy creams. This only overloads it and often causes acne-like inflammation, especially on the face.

But aren't there situations in which the skin needs external support?
Healthy skin depends on many factors. First, it depends on your skin type. Am I more of a Mediterranean type or someone with pale skin and lots of freckles? Do you spend a lot of time in the sun or in extreme cold? The skin can't always regulate itself. When conditions are challenging, it needs external support. But one thing is certain: the more external stress factors affect the skin, the sooner it needs support.

What is the truth behind the saying that drinking plenty of fluids helps with dry skin?Unfortunately, that's a misconception. If you drink two liters more, only a fraction reaches your skin. The skin is poorly connected to our bloodstream; unfortunately, it's located on the periphery, unlike the heart, muscles, and kidneys. That's why I think it's important to pay more attention to your skin, even externally, from around the age of 30.

One in two women claims to have dry skin. How can you actually tell?
The most important question is: Is my skin rather dry and oily? Or rather oily and moist? Dry and oily, these are essentially the two skin types. I've developed three face creams for this. For someone who needs very little, there's a light lotion. For very dry skin, there's a water-in-oil emulsion.

What about the recommendation that you should always stick to one skincare line?
That's utter nonsense. We need to get away from this topic. Skincare shouldn't have any missionary appeal. If you have a great cleanser, why should I advise you to use something from my line? You can combine any product with any other. Everything else is marketing.

But there is a certain order, right?
Absolutely, the rule of following the order is fundamentally important. If you use a serum, your skin must be cleansed beforehand. Contact with water causes the callused skin to absorb water for a short time, making it particularly well-conditioned to absorb skincare products. It's like applying moisturizer after a shower; it also works better than on dry sk

Back to vitamin A and vitamin C. Especially with vitamin A, or retinol, there are repeated warnings that excessive dosage can cause skin irritation. What dosage do you recommend?
Vitamin C has virtually no irritating potential; at most, it tingles slightly on the skin, like effervescent powder. Vitamin A is actually a bit different. It can cause some skin irritation, especially at the beginning, but ultimately, almost all skin types can tolerate it, with the possible exception of very sensitive rosacea skin. As a rule of thumb, I recommend gradually increasing the application: every third evening for three weeks, then every other evening for three weeks, and from the seventh week onward, every evening. However, there are also people with uncomplicated skin who can take vitamin A every evening from day one.

Your new skincare is unisex. Is it also a myth that men's skin has different needs?
This, too, is primarily clever marketing and the industry's justification for launching new products and generating growth. Men's skin is somewhat thicker, and the levels of estrogen and androgen naturally differ between the sexes. However, male skin cells are no different from female skin cells. The only aspect that speaks against unisex skincare is perfume. Women certainly have different ideas than men. However, with the increasing trend toward unscented products, this argument is no longer plausible.

Your facial creams don't have sun protection factor. Is that still appropriate?
Why should I smear chemical formulas and similar filters on my skin if I don't need them? You don't usually need sunscreen for the commute to the office. Instead, you should always have sunscreen in your purse in case the sun suddenly comes out and you want to sit at a sidewalk café. Of course, your skin shouldn't be exposed to the sun unprotected for extended periods, but here, too, I advocate returning to moderation. Sun is also a beautiful thing, and it's good for our souls, too.

So a separate sun protection?
Exactly, we've just launched a sunscreen with very high protection. I don't believe in the routine use of chemical filters in daily skincare. You need sun protection when you're out in the sun. Many factors need to be considered: How acclimated am I to the sun? In September, skin in our latitudes is generally not as sensitive as it is in April or May. Then it depends on my skin type, the time of day, the altitude at which I'm exposed to the sun, and how close I am to the equator. Reflective environments such as snow or water also need to be taken into account.

What effect does alcohol have on the skin and the aging process?
That's a difficult question. Who would want to forgo a good glass of red wine or champagne? There's nothing wrong with alcohol in moderation. But unfortunately, it must be said that regular alcohol consumption is bad for cells and organs, as alcohol is cytotoxic. People who remain healthy well into old age are not those who drink excessively, smoke, or are severely overweight. In the end, it's always about maintaining a healthy body weight, eating well, and promoting a balanced autonomic rhythm with exercise and good sleep cycles.