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Vitamin A is one of the most thoroughly researched actives in dermatology – and one of the most frequently misused. What it does in the tissue, how it works, and what to consider.
Vitamin A – also known as retinol – is a small molecule with remarkable effects. It acts in the deeper layers of the skin, where it has effects that rank among the best documented in dermatology. In simple terms, vitamin A is a guardian of skin cells. Its effects are broad – but its key effect concerns collagen.
To understand what vitamin A does in the skin, a simple model helps. Imagine the skin as a table covered with a tablecloth. The tablecloth is the upper skin layer – the epidermis, what you see. The table beneath it is the dermis. And the structure of the skin is not defined by the tablecloth, but by the table. That table consists largely of collagen. Collagen is continuously built up and broken down in the body – a process known as remodelling. With advancing age, this balance shifts: breakdown gains the upper hand, the table becomes less stable, and the tablecloth lies less evenly across it. This is exactly where vitamin A acts. It inhibits the enzymes that break down collagen while simultaneously stimulating processes that promote its renewal. The result: more collagen in the dermis, a more stable table – and a smoother, firmer epidermis above it.
Vitamin A and vitamin C are the classic long-distance runners of skincare – and they complement each other precisely. While vitamin A inhibits collagen breakdown and stimulates renewal, vitamin C stabilises existing collagen through its role in cross-linking collagen fibres. Together, they produce more structure and more firmness – over months, not overnight.
Vitamin A works. But it needs to be introduced gradually. In the first weeks, mild redness, flaking, or dryness may occur – this is not an allergic reaction, but a normal adaptation of the skin. To minimise it, starting with one to two evenings per week is recommended, increasing gradually from there. Important: retinol is inactivated by light and belongs exclusively in the evening routine. Those who follow these guidelines have in vitamin A one of the most effective actives in dermatology.
